6-Day Climb Mont Blanc Expedition

Without proper pre-acclimatization, most people do not reach the peak of Mont Blanc. We designed the program so that you have the highest chance of reaching the summit.

Although it is not as high as the peaks in the Himalayas, and some people can summit without prior acclimatization, it is highly unlikely. Therefore you would be risking a lot of time and preparation and then turn back at the end when developing high altitude sickness. That’s why we also include the acclimatization climb to Gran Paradiso in the first three days.

In the first three days of the expedition, we will teach you all the skills you need to reach the Mont Blanc summit. You will also use these days to acclimatize yourself in a high mountain hut under Gran Paradiso and then climb the peak the next day. All the skills and the experience you get from these first few days are necessary for the climb to Mont Blanc.

No. But you have to be aware that climbing Mont Blanc is proper alpinism. And to do proper alpinism, you have to be a proper alpinist.

You have to have a lot of previous experience with winter hiking and climbing. You have to be skilled in walking with crampons, know how to self-arrest with an ice axe, the basics of glacier travel, be familiar with different rope techniques, and more.

If you don’t, trying out the climb without a guide could put you in serious and even life-threatening danger. That’s why we strongly advise all those without the necessary skills and experience to book a guide for their Mont Blanc climb.

You will not only avoid any dangerous situations but also make your climb much less stressful and much more enjoyable. Those who climb with a guide also have a higher chance of making it to the summit on their Mont Blanc expedition.

Our guides are all IFMGA licensed, guaranteeing the highest standard of safety and professionalism in the mountain guiding world. They also have years of experience leading Mont Blanc expedition teams, so you can be sure they will safely guide you all the way to the summit and back down to the valley.

You should book at least 6 months in advance. The Mont Blanc hut bookings for the following season go online at the beginning of each year. The earlier we book, the more open spaces we’ll have.

Yes, you will still be able to find some spaces later on in the year, but if you are very limited in when you can come, you should book as early as possible.

The number of guides depends on the number of people in the group and the peak we are climbing. This is important to keep the safety of clients as high as possible.

On Gran Paradiso, the groups will have 1 guide for every 4 clients. When climbing Mont Blanc, the number of guides will increase to 1 guide per 2 clients.

Weather, good conditions, and good clients — are three main aspects we are looking at when deciding if we should attempt to climb Mont Blanc.

In the case of bad weather or awful snow conditions (high risk of snow avalanche or increased rockfall in the Grand Couloir), we don’t go risking your lives on the climb to it.

Good clients are those who are well prepared physically and have passed the test climb to Gran Paradiso. For those who didn’t, the climb to the summit of Mont Blanc might not be possible. That means they would probably only join us on the hike to some of the huts below the peak and not further on.

Then we find alternatives. Our goal is always to fill this week full of exciting mountaineering activities. If Mont Blanc isn’t possible, we will find alternatives that are.

Those may be located farther away (like Monte Rosa), so that the conditions may be better, or be lower in altitude (like Aiguilles d’Entrèves or Arête des Cosmiques) but more technically demanding.

In the end, the week should be no less fun than it would have been otherwise.

Mont Blanc has the highest fatality rate of any mountain in Europe. But it’s not because it is a highly difficult mountain to climb which requires a lot of previous experience and climbing skills. It is because tons of people attempt it each year. And out of those people who do, a lot of them are inexperienced or even novice mountain climbers. They are not ready for the most basic mountaineering challenges.

That’s why many of them perish. They are relying on being lucky because they do neither know the mountain nor are skilled enough in winter mountain climbing. That’s why a guide beside you is so valuable, it significantly lowers the chances of a dangerous situation arising.

Compared to some other mountaineering ascents in the vicinity, Mont Blanc is a relatively non-technical mountain. It doesn’t involve any technical climbing, which is why some of us describe it almost as a “long walk”.

The most difficult part is the scrambling above the Grand Couloir between the Tete Rousse Hut and the Gouter Hut. It isn’t climbing, but it involves using your hands and stepping quite high. The snowy ridge towards the summit is quite exposed, but you just have to walk straight on it and watch out not to trip on your crampons. And don’t worry — on every exposed part like this you will be roped up to our guides.

The Grand Couloir is located between the Tete Rousse and Gouter Huts on the Normal Route to Mont Blanc. It is known for its stonefall in dry conditions when there is not enough snow to hold the loose rocks from tumbling down the couloir.

We traverse it at about the third of the way between the two huts. Only there, a relative danger of stonefall that can seriously endanger climbers. Crossing it in the early morning is usually the safest, but it depends on the season. If there is very little snow, it might not even be worth risking it. Most of the time, the danger is minimal. We still take this decision seriously and will only decide to go on with the climb if the conditions are good enough.

No. High-altitude mountain huts have to be frugal with space, so their sleeping spaces are mostly dormitories. That’s why we also recommend you take earplugs for a night of easier sleep.

When we are staying in Chamonix in one of our partner hotels, the meals include breakfast, lunch and dinner. But when we are staying in the huts, we are booking only for half-board, as most of the huts offer only that. There is still a possibility to buy lunch packets in some hut, otherwise, we have to bring the food throughout the day with us.

Because the huts are at a high altitude, their food options are limited. Still, if you are a vegetarian or have food allergies, it’s possible to accommodate your needs if we message the hut in advance. Please inform us of any of your food restrictions at the reservation so we can try to find the best option for you and inform the huts.

Besides everything you need for the climb, be sure to take a sleeping bag liner (a lighter version of a sleeping bag), and if restrictions are still in place, a mask and antibacterial hand cleaner. You should also take some cash because most mountain huts are not able to accept cards because of the lack of internet connection.

Read more about all that you need to take on our Mont Blanc expedition here.